Before the kits went on sale through Grenpower we had a pretty good idea who was playing with an eChook board and how it was going for them.
Now though, we know we've sold a load of them but haven't a clue which teams are using them We were expecting an influx of questions once people started building up the kits, but this hasn't really happened - I think we've had a grand total of 4!
So... If you are using any part of the echook system - or if you're just interested - Let us know who you are and how you're getting on!
I'll go first:
I'm Rowan from the eChook team. We don't race in Greenpower any more, but I've been updating the eChook documentation in response to any questions people have and working out the final kinks in the in house eChook Telemetry website. Still in Beta, but it's getting there! We've also started looking at an overhaul of the Android App.
I'd like to find out how people are finding the eChook system, and if anyone needs a helping hand with it . Also which teams I should try to visit for a chat next race I get to!
Hello! I'm Ian from the eChook and weChook Racing teams. It's my voice you'll have heard on the echook videos.
I haven't been racing in Greenpower for a couple of seasons now but I still love the series and the opportunities it offers to engineers of all ages.
As Rowan has mentioned, we try to react as quickly as we can to any issues you guys are having, either by answering questions or improving our documentation so that it's more clear. All feedback is very appreciated as it helps us understand what we should be focusing our time on next.
I am in the process of building, a few questions I am afraid.
I have a component with jk60 025 - is that the poly fuse? From the blue tooth module I have some coloured cables, I assume the cables are soldered onto the board and the sockets are attached to the actual blue tooth unit.
No problem, basic questions just mean we can improve the documentation a bit
The polyfuse is a generic component - the print on it will change between batches of kits depending on where the supplier sources it from. The one I have in front of me says something different, but if you google "JK60 025" it comes up as a resettable polymer fuse - PolyFuse for short, so you've got the right bit! Sorry for the confusion there.
You can solder the cable for the bluetooth module to the board if you want, but there is a 6 pin length of PCB header in the kit to solder to the board which you can then plug either the bluetooth module, or the cables to the bluetooth module in to:
Just make sure you plug it the right way - check the pin names on the eChook board and on the Bluetooth module
Rowan, thanks for the rapid response,where are you based ? For some reason I had thought you were in the USA so was not expecting a response for a bit. There will be many questions I feel - it is not my strong point.
I am just about to try and add power. The notes say 'If a bench power supply is available, this is the safest power source to use. Set the voltage to 24V and the current limit to around 0.3A and attach to the power connectors 24v and ground pins.'
if I have 3 pins on the power in which on is which ?
The 'connecting the eChook to the Car' section of the documentation has a board diagram showing the pins.
Pin 1 (left hand pin on the connector, pin that is nearest the motor PWM connector) is the 24V battery input (which is the main power in for the board). Pin 2 (middle pin!) is the 12V battery input, this isn't used for power, it's purely so we can measure the battery. Pin 3 (not next to any other connectors, bottom right), this is ground.
Thanks very much, got that. I cannot get hold of a bench power supply so will use 2 12 volt Green power batteries. Before I do it I would like to check, I put the positive side of the battery to pin 1 and the negative to pin 3 after adding a 1 amp fuse. Then attempt to download the programme from the first link from windows into the Arduino.
That sounds about right. When you first power it up, do so without the arduino and bluetooth module plugged in, just as a precaution. Then check that the 5V test point has 5v on it. Now you can plug in the Arduino and Bluetooth module and check that the LED's flash.
When you plug in the USB cable it will get power from your computer, so you don't actually need the batteries plugged in any more - just important for the first test of the newly soldered board.
hanks for your help so far, the LEDs were flashing so that seems a good sign. I am trying the next step but am confused, I have got to include library and a list appears with manage libraries /add a zip library and the instructions say
'Now back in the Arduino IDE go to Sketches>Include Library> Add .ZIP and select the file you have just downloaded.' how do you do that bit ? ( I have the bounce master .zip file on the bottom left of my screen.
Have you already installed the Arduino IDE? If not go back a couple of steps and do that first. If you have, start it up, and in the menus across the top there is a 'Sketch' option. Go through that menu.
It will bring up an 'Open File' window, select the Bounce.zip that you've downloaded, and it will add the library for you.
Edit: Just realised I more or less repeated the documentation... Did that actually answer your question?
I have this message when I try to flash the code to the board. I have no idea what it means. Could you point me in a direction. I have a flashing led on the board next to an l and a red led for power .