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Post by Rowan on Aug 30, 2018 8:41:10 GMT
Hey Steve,
That's looking more promising, It's successfully compiling, but when it tries to upload it's not finding the board. Generally this happens if the wrong port is selected. If you unplug the arduino, then in the Arduino IDE go to Tools>Port and note what ports are available, then plug the arduino back in and repeat, a new port should have appeared. Select that one and try uploading again?
I'll message you my number now - give me a call if that doesn't work.
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Post by Rowan on Aug 29, 2018 10:16:02 GMT
That's impressive, I've not seen that one before. First step is to go to preferences and enable verbose logging: Try to flash it again and it should give more information on what's going wrong so we can fix it You're having a lot of fun with this board... if you want me to give you a call and talk through it make an account here so I can message you email etc without picking up a load of spam!
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Post by Rowan on Aug 28, 2018 14:46:09 GMT
Have you already installed the Arduino IDE? If not go back a couple of steps and do that first. If you have, start it up, and in the menus across the top there is a 'Sketch' option. Go through that menu. It will bring up an 'Open File' window, select the Bounce.zip that you've downloaded, and it will add the library for you. Edit: Just realised I more or less repeated the documentation... Did that actually answer your question?
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Post by Rowan on Aug 24, 2018 10:38:04 GMT
Hi Steve,
That sounds about right. When you first power it up, do so without the arduino and bluetooth module plugged in, just as a precaution. Then check that the 5V test point has 5v on it. Now you can plug in the Arduino and Bluetooth module and check that the LED's flash.
When you plug in the USB cable it will get power from your computer, so you don't actually need the batteries plugged in any more - just important for the first test of the newly soldered board.
Cheers,
Rowan.
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Post by Rowan on Aug 23, 2018 10:54:52 GMT
Hi Steve, No problem, basic questions just mean we can improve the documentation a bit The polyfuse is a generic component - the print on it will change between batches of kits depending on where the supplier sources it from. The one I have in front of me says something different, but if you google "JK60 025" it comes up as a resettable polymer fuse - PolyFuse for short, so you've got the right bit! Sorry for the confusion there. You can solder the cable for the bluetooth module to the board if you want, but there is a 6 pin length of PCB header in the kit to solder to the board which you can then plug either the bluetooth module, or the cables to the bluetooth module in to: Just make sure you plug it the right way - check the pin names on the eChook board and on the Bluetooth module Hope that helps, let us know how it goes. Cheers, Rowan.
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Post by Rowan on Aug 2, 2018 8:27:25 GMT
We've just opened up the beta for the data.echook.uk telemetry. If you want access please PM me If you could post any feedback you have here it would be much appreciated!
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Post by Rowan on Jun 27, 2018 11:58:34 GMT
Before the kits went on sale through Grenpower we had a pretty good idea who was playing with an eChook board and how it was going for them. Now though, we know we've sold a load of them but haven't a clue which teams are using them We were expecting an influx of questions once people started building up the kits, but this hasn't really happened - I think we've had a grand total of 4! So... If you are using any part of the echook system - or if you're just interested - Let us know who you are and how you're getting on! I'll go first: I'm Rowan from the eChook team. We don't race in Greenpower any more, but I've been updating the eChook documentation in response to any questions people have and working out the final kinks in the in house eChook Telemetry website. Still in Beta, but it's getting there! We've also started looking at an overhaul of the Android App. I'd like to find out how people are finding the eChook system, and if anyone needs a helping hand with it . Also which teams I should try to visit for a chat next race I get to! Who's next?
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Post by Rowan on Jun 27, 2018 9:44:28 GMT
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Post by Rowan on Jun 27, 2018 6:33:56 GMT
Hi James, The 473 capacitors (47nF) are for the current sensor. There should also be a 4.7nF in there for the current sensor. Instructions for these are in the 'connecting the eChook to the car' section of the documentation. The two other black components with three legs and square tops are the hall effect sensors for wheel and motor rpm. The two black components with round tops and two legs are the thermistors. I'll update the documentation to make this clearer Thanks, Rowan.
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Post by Rowan on Mar 17, 2018 17:27:45 GMT
Hey Chris, I'm glad you've got it built and working! Requiring mobile signal is a limitation unfortunately! It was the cheapest way we could do it as longer range communication is more expensive - not impossible though. You're not going to be able to increase the Bluetooth range sufficiently - Bluetooth is designed for relatively short range communication, but the data we send to the Bluetooth module is simply serial data, compatible with lots of hobby communication systems. The most popular that would work for you is probably zigbee/xbee. There's a good introduction to them here: www.sparkfun.com/pages/xbee_guideMy only experience with them was an old telemetry setup the driven team used, and they struggled for range on large tracks without line of sight, but they should work for your track, and you can get longer range ones than we used. To interface it you can take 3.3v from the Arduino on the eChook for power, and connect it to the TX and RX from the Bluetooth module. You'll need to configure the xbee to a baud rate of 115200, or alter the Arduino baud rate in code. For the receiver you can connect the receiving xbee to the Bluetooth module (TX to RX, RX to TX) and connect the phone to it. You can get USB 3.3v and 5v power supplies that could power the receiving end from a power bank or laptop. I'm only on my phone at the moment so researching is awkward, but if it's something you want to try I'm happy to work out the details with you.
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Post by Rowan on Sept 23, 2017 8:39:39 GMT
Hi John,
I believe we have one kit left at the moment, so it's got your name on it! I'll follow up via email
Rowan.
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Post by Rowan on Sept 12, 2017 9:27:10 GMT
A few updates today- Firstly we've had a few queries on how the lap counting feature works. I've updated the documentation with a more comprehensive guide and explanation, a link to that specific page (33) is here: goo.gl/2KU5oPWe have also been putting more development time into the app. A small update should be out in the next few days that adds the ability to share and clear the logged data directly from the app, and also you no longer have to type in the bluetooth device name, just pick it from a list, as well as some smaller tidying up. We're planning some far bigger changes to improve it both behind the scenes and to the user interface... Just no promises on the timing there! Hopefully the start of next season. We are now looking to package up the kits a bit more professionally for resale. Whether we do this ourselves or outsource it to a company, British or Chinese, is still up in the air, but if anyone here does have experience of doing something similar we'd be keen to hear from you! Thanks
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Post by Rowan on Aug 23, 2017 11:10:55 GMT
Good Telemetry is on every team's wishlist, and using an Android phone with an internet connection to collect data on the car gives a perfect way to get that data back to the pits in near real time.
While we have had this running at the 2016 Rockingham final, it was not a robust or secure system, but it did prove that it could be done through the phone's data connection.
In one form or another, we will develop a telemetry system that can be rolled out to anybody using the eChook app. There will be no hardware changes, just an app update to enable it for everyone. Developing it will simply take as long as it takes, but we'll keep you updated!
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Post by Rowan on Aug 22, 2017 10:54:52 GMT
The eChook kit is now available from the Greenpower Shop! Go To Listing.This kit includes the latest iteration of the PCB, an Arduino Nano, HC-05 Bluetooth module, and all the components required to build the board, shown below: For Wheel and Motor RPM sensing, some magnets are required. Small neodymium disc magnets are ideal for this. Ebay is a good source. If you would rather go a more DIY route, the gerber files for manufacturing your own PCB are hosted at github.com/eChook/eChook_Nano_PCB and a complete Bill of Materials is available here. You will also require an Arduino Nano and HC-05 Bluetooth module, which are generally best found on eBay. If you would like to source your own components but buy one of our PCBs, get in touch and we can supply just the PCB. Thanks! Rowan.
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Post by Rowan on Aug 14, 2017 9:52:56 GMT
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