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Post by Rowan on Apr 19, 2024 11:06:09 GMT
Hi Ian,
Interesting find, thanks for posting!
I've not seen that behaviour, but it's been a very long time since I sent any value <1 through it (at one point used 0-1 for throttle %). The only change I've ever made to that protocol was changing a 'special case' we had for 0, sending it as 0xFF instead of 0x00. Realising years later that I couldn't see any reason we'd implemented it that way, I removed it a few releases ago. I did test it, but quite possibly didn't check a <1 transmission.
I'll check it here and let you know what I find... Sounds like you might have found a good bug though!
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Post by Rowan on Feb 2, 2024 14:34:29 GMT
Hi Neil, Good bit of diagnosis there. You're right, if the intial calibration failes there will be a baud rate mismatch. I've just checked flashing a fresh HC-05 module and had the same outcome you've had. Flashing an older version of the eChook nano code allowed it to configure properly. My suggestion: 1. Download and flash V1.1 of the eChook code: github.com/eChook/eChook-Arduino-Nano/releases/tag/v1.12. Go through the conficuration process 3. Reflash the latest eChook code once the BT module is configured. I'll get a fix out for the new code once I work out what's causing the issue.
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Post by Rowan on Feb 2, 2024 10:15:50 GMT
Hi Neil,
Sorry you're having issues. Could I check - are you using an Arduino Nano 328P, or an Arduino Nano Every? If it's the 328p, only one serial interface will work at a time - either bluetooth or USB, otherwise they clash with each other.
I have only very recently published the V2 code for the eChook Nano - it worked for all my testing, and a few other teams that have tried it, but my suspicion is we're going to find it's a software bug.
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Post by Rowan on Oct 7, 2023 10:06:00 GMT
Hi - I replied on Facebook regarding the 0 magnets... you've found a very long-standing bug that I will fix soon, sorry about that!
Regarding the wrong speed readings, this is most often a case of some magnets are mounted the wrong way around. Easy to check - if you move the wheel by hand, move each magnet back and forth under the sensor and check that the app shows a speed reading. If a couple (3, judging by your shown Vs expected speed) are wrong, the easiest fix before the final is probably to change the config and reflash the Arduino to the number of working magnets
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Post by Rowan on Jun 26, 2023 15:00:52 GMT
Awesome, thanks for the update. I'm always keen to see how they're fitted to cars
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Post by Rowan on Jun 22, 2023 20:21:20 GMT
4 Amps at full throttle seems plausible to me unloaded.
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Post by Rowan on Jun 22, 2023 20:07:21 GMT
Sorry, I'm getting confused What worked with the bluetooth and phone? If it's sending data to the phone then the Arduino is programmed. The only reason you'd need to program it with the IDE again is to alter the calibration.
You're not getting any output, but you did get the avrdude: stk500_getsync() attempt 10 of 10: not in sync: resp=0x45 etc... feedback from the quoted post? That is the feedback you should be getting - even it it's feedback that there is an error that gives us something to work with.[/div] Can you post a screenshot of what you get / the white box?
A successful upload should look like this: (Verbose mode turned on in settings | don't worry about the code - this is slightly different to what you'll have)
And the error trying an upload with the wrong bootloader selected: If you are getting no text at all in that output / console window I suspect it's an IDE error and I'd recommend reinstalling the Arduino IDE. If that doesn't work maybe try using the online version, or the older version for windows and see if that changes anything.
If you're still struggling drop me an email (address in signature) and we can do a phone call early next week to get it up and running.
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Post by Rowan on Jun 22, 2023 19:38:42 GMT
Unloaded as in spinning freely, the motor shaft not connected to anything. If it was moving the car or a dyno rig it would be loaded.
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Post by Rowan on Jun 22, 2023 13:05:40 GMT
Hi Dave,
That text you've pasted is from what I'd call console at the bottom of the screen! Sorry for the misunderstanding.
The error you're seeing is it's trying to communicate with the Arduino and not getting the expected response. This can happen for a few reasons - 1. The bluetooth module is connected (Not your issue if the Arduino isn't in the board) 2. The wrong COM Port is selected (Does COM7 disappear when you unplug your arduino?) 3. The wrong arduino selected (Your sounds correct though), 4. Or as Keith suggests above, the wrong bootloader selected. If you go into Tools>Processor and select "ATmega328P (Old Bootloader)" that might be the fix.
Fingers Crossed!
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Post by Rowan on Jun 22, 2023 7:37:25 GMT
Is this with the motor unloaded? With the old motor We'd see around 5-6Amps (if memory serves) with the motor unloaded so it may not be too far off?
The gauge and size of the wire has no affect on the current reading. If you've calibrated the reading with a bench power supply, it should be reading correctly on the motor wire.
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Post by Rowan on Jun 19, 2023 17:15:45 GMT
The intermittent temperature readings are most likely a bad connection - most likely on the GND side of the circuit if it's happening to both simultaniously. Check the Witing and for loose solder joints?
Yes, when reading the A0 voltage it's relative to GND, so black probe on any GND point on the board.
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Post by Rowan on Jun 19, 2023 9:14:25 GMT
It's very odd that no text has appeared in the console at the bottom half of the screen. Does anything appear if you go into settings and tick the boxes for Verbose Compiling and Verbose Uploading?
Is this a fresh arduino or one that has been used on an eChook before? IF it was a fresh one, then the LEDs are doing what they should for a programmed one and I think the upload has actually worked.
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Post by Rowan on Jun 18, 2023 19:15:23 GMT
That is odd! Is this the version of the code I linked to earlier? I've taken another look at the changes between the two of them and I can't see anything obvious that would break on one of the early boards.
Temperature wise, I might have increased the filtering on it in the newer code to make the reading a little smoother.
I'd recommend using the old code for now as it works. Functionally there is very little difference between it and the newer code (So long as you don't want to use an Arduino Nano Every instead of and Arduino Nano)
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Post by Rowan on Jun 18, 2023 15:28:51 GMT
Hi Dave,
What actually happens when you press upload? If it's successful the terminal window at the bottom of the IDE should read 'avrdude done. Thank you.' at the bottom. If it isn't successful it will give an error.
What you're describing with the lights actually sounds like it's programmed perfectly and you can move on to setting up the bluetooth.
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Post by Rowan on Jun 16, 2023 21:16:41 GMT
If the data is coming through in a bluetooth terminal on the phone, then changing the Nano shouldn't make any difference. The data is defined by the firmware (arduino code) - if the hardware is working to send data out at all, then changing the hardware isn't going to change the contents of the data.
Are you sure the right bluetooth device is selected in the eChook app settings?
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